Trango Tower

The Trango Towers group has seen some of the most difficult and significant climbs ever accomplished, due to the combination of altitude, total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock. All of the routes are highly technical climbs. Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side (Trango Glacier), and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face. The east face of Great Trango is the world’s tallest vertical rock face, and was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent. The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, on a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians. These two climbs have been called “perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world. The easiest route on Great Trango is on the Northwest Face, and was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. This is nonetheless a very serious, technical climb.

Trango (Nameless) Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the legendary British climber Joe Brown, along with Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells. It is now a popular ascent, albeit for the elite of the climbing community: there are at least eight separate routes to the summit. One notable route is known as Eternal Flame (named after a Bangles album), first climbed on September 20, 1989 by Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich. This route ascends the South-East Face of the Tower, and was climbed almost entirely free (in stages, using fixed ropes to return to a base each night). This helped inaugurate an era of pure rock-climbing techniques and aesthetics on high-altitude peaks.

Most of the rock is both granite, gneiss, or schist, however, the predominant rock type is granite, the couloirs then dog legs left parallel to the face and the routes follow this to a small saddle. There also anther many unclimbed peaks the Peak. Climbing of below 6500 meter peaks without any bonding royalty fee. Travel with your guide and have a life time Experience on Nangma valley Pakistan.