Face of Great Trango is the World’s Tallest Vertical Rock

The Trango Towers group has seen some of the most difficult and significant climbs ever accomplished, due to the combination of altitude, total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock. All of the routes are highly technical climbs. Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side (Trango Glacier), and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face. The east face of Great Trango is the world’s tallest vertical rock face, and was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent. The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, on a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians. These two climbs have been called “perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world. The easiest route on Great Trango is on the Northwest Face, and was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. This is nonetheless a very serious, technical climb.

Trango (Nameless) Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the legendary British climber Joe Brown, along with Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells. It is now a popular ascent, albeit for the elite of the climbing community: there are at least eight separate routes to the summit. One notable route is known as Eternal Flame (named after a Bangles album), first climbed on September 20, 1989 by Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich. This route ascends the South-East Face of the Tower, and was climbed almost entirely free (in stages, using fixed ropes to return to a base each night). This helped inaugurate an era of pure rock-climbing techniques and aesthetics on high-altitude peaks.

Most of the rock is both granite, gneiss, or schist, however, the predominant rock type is granite, the couloirs then dog legs left parallel to the face and the routes follow this to a small saddle. There also anther many unclimbed peaks the Peak. Climbing of below 6500 meter peaks without any bonding royalty fee. Travel with your guide and have a life time Experience on Nangma valley Pakistan.

ITINERARY

  • DAY 1
    Islamabad Arrive in Islamabad transfer to hotel.
  • DAY 2
    Skardu / Chilas
    1) Fly to Skardu PK-451 . (Flight is depend on weather).
    2) In case of cancellation of flight same day drive by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. Overnight at hotel.
  • DAY 3
    Chilas / Skardu
    1) Free day at Skardu. Welcome Tourism Department of Gilgit – Baltistan for (briefing) .
    2) If your are driving, it takes (09–10 hrs) Journey to Skardu (277 km) and has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at bank of Indus River . Overnight at hotel.
  • DAY 4
    Skardu To Askoli
    The day early morning leave for skardu to Askoli by safari jeep it takes 6 r 7 hrs. Overnight in camp.
  • DAY 5
    Askoli To Jhola
    This is the first day from where trekking starts Askoli to jula is two stages. We have lunch on korefong its include in 1st stage after having lunch we ll move to jhola.
  • DAY 6
    Jhola to Paiyu
    This is the day where poter rush to move for paiyu they love to cash paiyu very soon because there ll be balti culture singing. Dancing etc. Whole night potters and interested foreigner sings and dance. No one can sleep peacefully.
  • DAY 7
    Trek to base camp of Trango tower.
  • DAY 08-31
    Start acclimatization climbing.
  • DAY 32
    Paju
    Trek back to Paju meals and over night camp.
  • DAY 33
    Paju to Jhola
    Trek to Jula meals and over night camp.
  • DAY 34
    Jhola to Askoli
    Trek to Askole over night camp.
  • DAY 35
    Askoli To Skardu
    Drive to Skardu. Transfer to hotel.meet with ministry of tourism de-briefing overnight at hotel.
  • DAY 36
    Skardu To Islamabad or Chillas
    Fly to Islamabad or Drive to Chillas. Transfer to hotel. Over night at hotel.
  • DAY 37
    Islamabad from chilas very early it takes 10 r 12 hrs.
  • DAY 38
    End our service.

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