Hard Climbing Route Known as The Golden Pillar Climbing

Fixed Departure for Spantik (7027m) Peak Expedition – 2019 (Pakistan)

01 July to 30 July 2019

Fixed Departure for Spantik (7027m) Peak Expedition – 2019 (Pakistan)

30 July to 30 August 2019

Spantik Peak is known by various names of its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is called “Ghenish Chhish”, which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 AD via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and titanic plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the imminent Southwest spur.

Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite for climbers to training themselves for higher elevation. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an charming climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some hard and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The scene is absolutely breathtaking.

Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an exorbitant physical condition as well as regular practice are needed to be on this expedition

Spantik Peak Expedition Itinerary:

ITINERARY

  • DAY 1
    Islamabad Arival at Islamabad airport transfer to hotel.
  • DAY 2
    Islamabad Chillas/Skardu
    Fly to skardu or drive to chillas. Then next day drive to Skardu from chillas through KKH.
  • DAY 3
    Briefing at Ministry of Tourism overnight in hotel.
  • DAY 4
    Skardu to Arandu (2950m)
    Drive to Arandu, overnight camp.
  • DAY 5
    Arandu to Pukpun (3300m)
    First day trek start from Arandu o pukpun takes 6 or 7 hrs.
  • DAY 6
    Pukpun to Khurumal (3500m)
    Pukpun to khurumal It is (5 – 6 hrs) trekking. Watching the miracle views of the pyramid of Spantik, Overnight at camp.
  • DAY 7
    Khurumal to Bolucho (3800m)
    Khurumal to bolucho It is relatively short stage, which takes (4 –5 hrs). Passing through the summer settlement of Gharincho and a small lake and enjoying the excellent views of Spantik and Laila Peaks we reach Bolucho, which is situated at the base of the Bolucho Glacier. Overnight at camp at about (3,900 meters) on a green ground with water.
  • DAY 8
    Bolucho to Base Camp (4600m)
    Bolucho to Bascamp We leave the ablation valley and head on the ice of the Chogolungma Glacier. We gently gain height as we approach base camp at the foot of Spantik’s South East Ridge. (5-6 hrs).
  • DAY 09 – 20
    Acclimatization and Climbing.
  • DAY 21
    Chogo brangsa back to Chogo Brangsa. Overnight camp.
  • DAY 22
    Arandu Next day move early morning for Arandu. Overnight camp.
  • DAY 23
    Skardu Drive by jeep to Skardu. Afternoon for De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism Office, skardu. Overnight hotel.
  • DAY 24
    Islamabad or chillas Fly to Islamabad if flight operate r drive to chilas by AC coach or high roof. Overnight chilas hotel.
  • DAY 25
    Islamabad Move to Islamabad from chilas very early it takes 10 r 12 hrs.
  • DAY 26
    End our service.

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